Toilet Repair Near Norristown

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Toilet Repair Services Near Norristown, Pennsylvania

Grand View Heights, Bridgeport, Jeffersonville, East Norriton, Springtown, West Norriton, Henderson, Hidden Valley, Washington Park, King Of Prussia

When things go wrong with your home toilet, it could be among the most common– and disturbing– plumbing problems you could experience in your home. Whether it is overflowing or running continually, a toilet repair is an issue you can not put aside.

It would be best if you always try and maintain them in good working order as they are among the most considerable fixtures in a plumbing system. We don’t pay them much thought until something goes wrong and they quit working.

The feared clogged-up toilet is among homeowners’ most common domestic challenges. Many will attempt to repair the problem, only to find that the repair did not work or that the problem reappeared.

When the problem requires more than just a plunger service, it’s best to call a local plumber near me for all toilet repair or installation needs. With years of experience servicing Montgomery County, Pennsylvania locations, our local plumbing qualified team can take care of toilet repair quickly and effectively, and at a reasonable cost.

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Most Common Issues with Toilets in Homes

Plenty of toilet repairs, installations, and services are best left for the pros to handle. Nonetheless, not all services need emergency plumbing services.

Let us to go through a few of the standard problems faced by consumers that have called us for ideas on how to fix them:

Moaning noises:

If you hear groaning sounds from a toilet, it could be due to a rise in water pressure, which makes a valve shudder or shake.

Random or constant flushing:

Either of these 2 problems will potentially trigger the unit to flush and begin filling up on its own:

the refill tube is too long, or
a leaking flapper

This flushing at random leads to water damage and waste, resulting in a higher monthly water service bill.

Compound flushing:

Perhaps you only flush once; however, the toilet flushes twice or even three times. A high water level is usually the source of this problem. Changing the float control within the tank will typically repair this issue.

Water leaking into the bowl, or “Phantom Flushes”:

A sluggish leakage from the tank into the bowl is the source of the problem here. A malfunctioning flapper or flapper seat is undoubtedly to blame.

Changing a worn or broken flapper is the best solution to avoid plumbing issues. Empty the water tank, clean and check the seat, then change the flapper.

Sluggish flushes:

A low water level or the lift chain that connects the flush handle and the flapper valve causes a toilet only to flush partially. Loosen the lift chain to let the flapper settle properly inside the bowl.

Base leaks:

The gasket made of wax between the drain pipeline at the base of the unit should be replaced if it leaks when flushed. This process requires a knowledgeable plumbing service.

Not flushing totally:

Check if the lift chain has any slack, and make adjustments as needed.
Check for an appropriate water level in the tank.
After that, ensure that the flapper is fitted correctly and is the best size and type for the unit.

The Bowl Empties Slow:

Blocked openings under the bowl’s surface area are the most typical cause of a slow-emptying bowl, also referred to as a bad flush. To clean out any clutter, gently poke each flush opening with a bent piece of wire.

If you are still unable to resolve these issues, it will be best to contact a local plumber near me.

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Pro Plumbing Service Tips for Fixing Common Toilet Issue Yourself

A toilet consists of 2 major parts: the bowl unit, which rests on the floor, and the upper tank which holds the water. The bowl is a solid drain piece of the fixture made from porcelain with no moving parts.

Few repairs involve the bowl, with a few exceptions. On the other hand, the tank is where 2 important valves exist and the handle for flushing. The tank is where most of the toilet repairs happen.

You will be surprised to learn that most problems are fairly easy to fix without the need to call an emergency plumber.

Running Toilet Repair Service:

If you’ve tried a brand-new flapper for a running toilet and it still runs, don’t give up hope. Here’s a solution that ensures it works.

Few home nuisances are somewhat as irritating as the noise of continuously running water. If you hear refilling too often, or if you hear the constant hiss of running water, the flapper in the unit could be leaking.

The flapper (also known as the “flush valve seal”) is the plug that falls against the drain opening (flush valve drain seat) on the bottom of the tank. It holds water until the next time you flush. When flappers or flush valve seats wear, water drips out, creating the valve to open and refill the tank.

Step 1: Changing Flapper:

First, remove the old flapper and bring it with you to the hardware shop or home center to find an identical one.

Note: Occasionally, a brand-new flapper does not fix the problem. If you have tried changing the flapper, but it still runs, the flush valve seat is probably rough or pitted.

You can replace the complete flush flapper valve; nonetheless, it is not an easy job, and it may need the experience of a plumber near Norristown, Pennsylvania.

Step 2: Flapper Set with Flush Seat Repairing:

If changing the flapper alone didn’t work, look for a flapper kit with a flush seat repair.

Note: You want to buy a Flush valve repair kit. The kit has a flapper and matching seat that you adhere to the broken seat with the glue provided.

First, close the water supply to the toilet.
Hold the flapper open while flushing to enable the remaining water to drain from the tank.
Make use of a sponge to wipe out the water that stays entirely.
Follow the included instructions to install the new flapper valve seat.
- Pro tip: If the unit uses 3.5 gallons or less of water per flush, you will need a set that includes a plastic cup to change the flapper’s time to stay open. If your unit utilizes more than this, get rid of the timing cup.
  Install the new flapper.
With the flapper down, readjust the chain length, so it’s somewhat relaxed.
Turn on the water to test the flush.

Note: You may need to fiddle with the chain length to get the flapper functioning correctly.

When finished, cut off the excess chain to keep it from getting stuck under the flapper.

Toilet Repair Services: Broken Handle

If shaking the handle does not stop your toilet from running, any one of these straightforward repairs probably will.

The handle is a primary device– only a few things can malfunction and need to be repaired. The solution is easier than you think.

Step 1: Loose Handle:

If the handle is loose, the installation of a new one is fairly easy. Tighten up the nut and washer inside the tank with a pair of pliers without over-tighten it; you might strip the threads or, even worse, damage the porcelain tank.

If the handle sticks in the down flush position, it may not be mounted properly. Loosen the nut washer, reposition the handle to align with the top side of the tank, and re-tighten the nut.

Step 2: Stripped Threads:

If the nut does not tighten up or keeps coming loose, it’s a sign that the nut threads are stripped. For a quick repair, cover the threads on the handle screw with “plumber’s tape” or electrical tape.

Then, move the washer and nut back on and tighten up the nut. It is often best to replace the handle with a brand-new one if the threads are too damaged or broken.

Step 3: Handle Arm:

Look into the handle arm for problems, splits, or breaks.
If there are problems, replace the entire handle and the arm assembly.
- Pro tip: Remember where your handle mounts on the tank before purchasing a replacement handle. There are numerous kinds: front mount left, front mount right, front mount universal, and side mount.

Step 4: The Chain:

Suppose the handle appears to be running correctly, yet the toilet still does not flush. In that case, the chain attaching the handle arm to the flapper could be detached or damaged.

- Pro Tip: Before working on the chain, empty the tank, shut off the water valve, and pull up the flapper, allowing the water to drain.

If the chain detaches from the handle arm, reconnect the chain from the flapper into the holes on the handle arm, utilizing the chain hook.
Leave a little slack in the chain.
If the chain detaches from the flapper, reconnect the chain to the flapper.
If the chain or the flapper is defective, replace it.

Buying Tips for Toilets

Tired of your old, leaking, water hog of a toilet and want to buy a brand-new one? A toilet replacement is not a major job and today you’ll find water-efficient units with an array of options. Use the following ideas for the next time you go shopping for a new unit.

Insulated tank:

If summer seasons are damp where you live, and you don’t have A/C, you’ve probably spotted “sweating moisture” quite a bit on the side of the unit. Condensation forming on the exterior of a toilet can trickle down, making a water mess and even rotting your floor.

Today, most toilets are made available with insulated storage tanks to prevent condensation problems. Consider this alternative if you have “sweating” problems.

Bowl height:

Bowl height is the distance from the floor to the top of the bowl’s edge– the standard height is 14 to 15 inches. Yet today, you’ll find units 16 to 18 inches high, often called “comfort level” “ADA height” or something similar.

The additional heights offered make getting on and off much more accessible and comfortable for many people, especially aging individuals. Designs for youngsters with heights of 10 to 14 inches are also available.

One-piece vs. two-piece:

A two-piece (a separate tank and bowl) is the most typical style in homes. Yet one-piece styles are offered. Two-piece styles are usually less expensive; one-piece styles typically have shorter tank and are much easier to clean.

One-piece styles are the favorite of many homeowners because of their smooth, sleek look.

Cost:

When it pertains to toilets, expensive does not immediately suggest better efficiency. Several of the best models we have tested were reasonably affordable and performed well. In comparison, costlier ones were only marginally efficient.

Color:

Fashion is fickle. Stick with a white or beige color style to avoid being stuck to a color you’ll resent a few years later on.

Flush-handle location:

If you have a large bathroom and have plenty of space above or beside your toilet, this probably isn’t all that essential. Be sure to choose a style with a top handle or one opposite the wall if the space is limited.

Buying a suitable style is very important, to save yourself a return trip to the shop, so pay attention when choosing style options.

Rough-in:

The “rough-in” measurement is the distance between the flange screws that anchors the toilet bowl to the floor and the wall surface behind it. A twelve-inch “rough-in” is the most typical measurement; nevertheless, in some older houses, you might have a 10-inch or even a 14-inch “rough-in.”

Tip: Make sure to measure your “rough-in” and always account for the thickness of your baseboard, paneling, or tile backing before purchasing the unit.

Bowl design:

Many unit styles marketed today have either round-front bowls or elongated-front bowls.

Round-front bowls are good if the area is tight.
Elongated bowls have a more extended edge– as much as 2-inch longer– and need more space.

On the plus side, elongated bowls are typically much more comfortable for adult use which helps increase health and wellness. Assess your supplier’s websites for bowl measurements, and measure your space before choosing the bowl design.

Footprint:

If you install a brand-new toilet with a smaller tank, you may need to repaint the part of the wall surface area covered by the old tank.

The same will apply if the old unit style had a large footprint on the floor, you might need to patch and fix the floor part surrounded by the footprint of the old unit. You may also need to replace the whole floor before setting up a brand-new unit.